Gate & Building Entry Locks: getting ready

The padlock on the side gate has gone stiff every winter for three years running, and this year the key simply will not turn past the first few pins. Salt spray off the road and a season of meltwater have left the cylinder pitted and reluctant.

Worth answering before the call

Which gate or door is giving you trouble? Is the gate sagging, dragging, or hard to close by hand? Roughly how many people currently need a working key?

What makes a cylinder weather-rated, and does it matter?

A weather-rated cylinder is built with materials and seals meant to resist water, salt and temperature swings better than a standard indoor cylinder, which matters a great deal for anything mounted on an exterior gate or a street-facing door. Without that rating, a cylinder exposed to rain, road spray and freeze-thaw cycles tends to pit, stiffen or seize well before an equivalent indoor lock would show any wear. Choosing the rated version at the outset is usually simpler than replacing a corroded one a season or two later.

How do you decide whether to repair a gate lock or replace it?

The decision follows what the assessment actually finds rather than the age of the hardware alone. A cylinder that is only stiff or slightly worn is usually serviced and left in place, while one that is pitted, cracked or built to a grade unsuited to its exposure is replaced. The same logic applies to a closer or hinge: adjustment first, replacement only once the part itself has genuinely failed. You are told which category the hardware fell into and why before any work proceeds.